Let the history lesson commence… Gandanlegchenling (aka Gandan; the ‘great place of the great joy’) Monastery moved to its current location in Ulaan-Bataar in 1835. However, those darn ‘communists’ headed east and by 1938 they has desecrated over 900 monasteries in Mongolia and killed lots more monks. At this site, five buildings remained, which they used as accommodation for Russian officials, oh and horse sheds; only the best for the red army’s horses!
Following a petition in 1944, the monastery reopened, however under the strict control of the socialist government. Fast forward to 1990, the democratic revolution and the resurrection of religion; Buddhism flourish once again as too the beginning of an ambitious restoration project to the site.
Mongolian Buddhism differs from traditional forms of Buddhism in so far as the monks can marry, can have their own possessions and, if the needs arises, you can touch them! So,it was no great shakes to see a monk with a mobile phone in one hand and a cigarette in the other.
I am not au fait with Buddhism and luckily we had Anne and Fred on hand to keep us on the straight and narrow.
Surrounding many of the temples were ‘praying circles’, cylindrical metal drums. You had complete the circle (some had 50+ drums) spinning each one with your right hand only. On completion not only would it bring you good luck, but you also got to make a wish; win, win!
We entered one temple to watch the monks, with their scriptures, praying and chanting. On leaving a religious building you should walk out backwards, so not too turn your back on their religion – a respect thing. And also, on entering and leaving you had to step over the door lentle; I’m not sure whether this was a respect or good luck thing, either way I did as I was advised. I’m not sure whether their is a difference between monastery’s and temples, but here we could leave our shoes on. I’m hoping by the time I end my trip my knowledge of different religions will be much more advanced.
The site is swarming with pesky pigeons, with many local folks on hand to sell you seeds to feed the the birds – not sure if it was ‘tuppence a bag’ 😉 In fact, there were lots of sellers onsite touting their wares. From paintings, to charms, bracelets and coins; all was available for a price. Diana found me a coin; a Karl Marx coin. Yep, i come to Mongolia and buy Russian artefacts; regardless, I was pretty chuffed.
Randomly we came across a pair of gold feet. However, it was soon explained that these feet once belonged to a Buddhist statue which the Russian’s had mutilated; off with your head, body and legs so it seems. The master plan is to recreate the statue, on completion it hopes to be higher than the Statue of Liberty.
There was info and drawings about how they are hoping to restore the site across the next 10 years; but it all seemed a bit Hollywood to me. I think restoration is one thing, but recreating another. Yet, as an up and coming country they seem to have decided to go down the tourist route, do they have another option? Again, I wondered what Ulaan-Bataar will become in 10 years time.
House of Wendy travels... 