Lovely Lima

Hola, this is going to be a quickie as I did not want you to think, like I initially did, that Lima is nothing more that an airport stop. It’s quite a large, bustling, cosmopolitan city and felt quite westernised. It does not possess the charms of Cuzco or the craziness of La Paz, but it still is still worthy of its very own post.

I stayed in the Miraflores district which is centred around Parque Kennedy. The park was really pretty and surprise, surprise it had a rather lovely church.

The hostel was also central, the Red Psycho Llama, whose ethos is all about recycling, so the bar was decked out in cassettes, the doors in CDs, old record on the wall – you get the picture.

The views from the roof top terrace were of a city esq stature. There was a hotel, I think, which I looked out onto, that on an evening turned into a psychedelic rainbow. Most lovely!

Unfortunately I was only there for a couple of days, so I did not get all the sight seeing done that I had intended. However, I did have a wander down to the seafront to see the pacific ocean in its grey glory. Given it’s location, that it sits on where two seas merge and the Andes hover in the background, Lima is mostly foggy, or if I’m feeling poetic ‘atmospheric’.

Mind, the bars were colourful and the pisco sours most tasty.

I think that pix is maybe the perfect way to say goodbye to South America, although I’m sure my Mexican tales will be just as colourful; time will tell x

Now this is one mother of a canyon

No visit to Arequipa is complete without trip to Colca Canyon. Although the best way to explore is to trek it, my itinerary had me on a gentler route; yep by bus; although we did partake in some ‘nature’ walks.

The canyon is one of the world’s deepest canyons, it stands, or falls at 3191m; bigger than the Grand Canyon. We started our two day trip by us, stopping at craft stalls and finding out about the wildlife en route. Now did you know there are four members of the llama family? Me neither! Llamas, vicuña, alpacas and guanaco. Our tour guide, who was exceptional, did explain the variations, some have chubby cheeks and flat noses, while some tails stick up and others down. Mind, please don’t ask me which ones are which 😉

Checkout the cute little rabbit, there were many on the roadside and they scampered about like squirrels, most bizarre.

Ww stopped off to take in the majestic volcano which is el misti, 5822m high. There was no way your were going to get me up there, but it looked pretty good from afar.

We headed though the reserva nacional salinas y aguada blanca, along the deserted road to the altiplano (high Andean plateau) where we reached the highest point – hey it was a wee bit chilly up there!

After a quick drop off at the hostel, our next stop was Chivay’s hot springs. We had a good hour to chill out and wash away the days journey before our evening treat of a show, yep with singing, music and dancing, oh and food and drink.

Check out the chaps mask… This was the malaria dance which saw the chap eating an apple, falling to the floor in convulsions and then getting the illnesses beat out of him. Enough said.

The following morning we headed to the canyon in the hope of seeing it fog free and maybe catching a condor, or two. We were in luck – it must have been the dance we performed the previous evening asking pachamama (mother earth) to grant our wishes! It was really atmospheric on arrival, hidden in mist, but if you look hard enough you will be able to catch a glimpse of the river and the enormity of the canyon.

There’s only about 50 condors left in the valley, so I was pleased to see a couple. My pix don’t do them justice; they have a wingspan of over 3m, when they soared above you it was certainly a sight to behold. A few more stop of points and lovely landscapes before heading back to Arequipa.

It started with a cake, or two…

Returning to Cusco after my Machi Picchu experience, I wondered what on earth could follow that. I soon found the answer in the form of food! Yep, food… Viv and Dave, along with Zoe were off on the trek (yep, the one I should have done), but back fresh faced and ready to eat was my pal Ashley; although at this point I did not realise we were both cake and potato fiends.

What way to spend a Sunday in Cusco than visiting coffee shops and eating cakes? It felt
like a Sunday in England, well aside from no Sunday papers and the fact it was sunny 🙂 and, hey did we eat? Following cakes and a wee jaunt around the city, aghast, we ended up having dinner too at a super cool, child orientated restaurant – the perfect way to fuel me pre my Arequipa night bus.

Ashley was also off to Arequipa, although she had the sense to take an hour flight as opposed to a night bus. So off to the ‘white city’, so called as the marble glistens in the sun, we went.

A beautiful, if jammed packed with crazy car drivers, city it was. The plaza de armas was flanked by a beautiful church as seems to be the norm in Peru.

It was also, oh very delightful on an evening.

However, as the post title infers this is all about the food. So lunch, we found the ‘cafe at the top’ and thought we would have a light bite. Steak sandwich ordered, a full cow appears on my plate. After a wee gander abut town, there was only one thing to do, coffee and cake – it would have been rude not to!

Washed down with some Inca kola, the Peruvian favourite (more popular than regular coke don’t you know!)

Ok, so it was about 5 ish, you would have thought that the last thing on our mind would have been food… Nope, we decided to head out for dinner at 8pm. Where to, a Chinese! Come on it my first Chinese in over two months.

The next morning we both had trips planned, I was off for a couple days in Colca Canyon to partake in some flora, fauna and wildlife watching, combined with some ‘nature’ walks, while Ashley had signed up to a three day trek down the canyon. I bet she was glad she had ate so much cake 😉 we agreed to meet up when she returned, yep to go out for dinner, or our last supper!

That afternoon, before ending up in Starbucks (I had been booted out of my hostel and it was raining, thatismy excuse and im sticking to it!) I happened to go down a street filled with chicken and chip shops; I’m not talking KFC, these were the real McCoy! It must have stuck in my head, as although we found a quaint little authentic (in the tourist type of way) restaurant, I ended up eating chicken wings for starters and chicken and chips; there is only so much Alpaca a gal can eat! Ashley on the other hand, went all sophisticated on me having avocado albeit with spag bol, and
she did help me to finish the chips.

So, our last supper thoroughly enjoyed I had to say goodbye to Ashley as I headed to my desert oasis. I may have left, but the cake fetish still continues… I even got a pix from her from here latest cake haunt; oh I wish I was there x

The lost city of the Incas

This is going to be a short, but hopefully deliciously sweet post. Machu Picchu needs little introduction; the lost city of the incas – built in 1450 yet abandoned in 1572 when the Spanish were hot on the inca’s tails. For nearly 350 years the city lay dormant, hidden amidst the landscape. Known to locals, it was not until 1911 when the American explorer Hiram Bingham happened to be shown the site by a local boy that it was awarded the international attention it deserved.

Since then it has been swathed in tourists, all wanting their piece of the beauty, and to some, the mysticism that is Machu Picchu. Yep, I was one of those tourists. One of my my few regrets on my trip was that I did not partake in the travellers ‘obligatory’ four day trek to see Machu Picchu. I know I’m not one for trekking, but arriving on bus, as atmospheric as it was, combined with a 15 minute walk uphill and voila, there it was. It seemed as if I was on a school trip and I had some how cheated it by not taking the paths that the inca did to arrive there… That being said, it is a sight to behold and how lucky am I to even cast eyes on the marvel?

Heading to the heart of ancient Peru

All roads in Peru lead to Cusco and to the city of the Incas, Machu Picchu. I had a good five days in Cusco and was looking forward to enjoying the vibe of the city before heading up the sacred valley and to one of the seven wonders of the world.

It was all going on in Cusco, Zoe was there, as too Viv and Dave and before long Ashley (who I also met on the 4×4 road trip) returned from her trek. Obviously, a few beers, vinos and lots of food was on the cards, as too soaking up Cusco’s charms. The city is centred around the plaza de armas which is whether everyone, local or not gathers.

At night the square turns into an enchanted fairytale.

Enough about the Cusco’s charms I have serious Inca business to share 🙂 As you maybe well aware, I’m not the outdoors type of gal, as such I totally discarded the thought of doing the four day trek to Machu Picchu, instead I opted for 2D/1N option. Day one, welcome to the sacred valley. I will not bore you too much with too many words, but will let you know I visited the towns of Pisaq, Calca, Urumbamba and Ollantaytambo which sat along the banks of the Vilcanota River Valley which included a multitude of Inca sites and some super duper craft markets. Enjoy!

Pretty cool, eh? Next stop the train station, bound for Machu Picchu!

Living with the locals

Another day, another set of adventures…. Today was a visit to the floating islands in lake titicaca and I was delighted that my fellow Bamba experience gal, Zoe, was joining me. After a leisurely boat trip we caught our first glimpse of the floating islands.

We were visiting Uros floating island inhabited by Aymara speaking families. It was a small Island comprising of 10 families and a population of 40.

I can’t recall how many of these islands there are on lake titicaca, lots I think, but apparently in times of war many families took to the lake to escape the Inca’s and Quecha speaking folk. We were greeted by a local gentleman who explained how they made the islands from Totora reeds. Are you ready for your history lesson 😉 to make the base, they first cut the roots of the Totora reeds. This island used four blocks which were then secured together. On top, they used multiple layers of different parts of the reeds and then the houses were built on top. To secure the islands, they anchored them into the lake; yep, as easy as this…

The islanders are quite self sufficient, able to hunt and fish – check out the size of his gun!

However, for some items they need to head to mainland, ie; rice, pasta and the like. Today, it seems their income is somewhat supplemented by the handicraft of the ladies on the islands.

I had read that many people felt trips like this are a bit staged and at points it felt like that, especially after our construction demonstration a local women picked off groups of us to show us inside her home and meet her children and take photographs – we played the game.

Next, we were shown their handiwork, as a not so closet crafter I was might impressed.

To spend what equated to £18 on a large tapestry that they must have taken weeks to create seemed like no great shake to me – my only worry is where am I go to put it in my house! We were then offered a ‘once in a lifetime’ ride on one of their boats.

Check out the Bamba gals enjoying the experience! Again, for £2.50 it was hardly exploitative and it was our choice to take part. I think there was probably about 20 of us in our group, if we averaged it out that most people spent about a £5 a £10 each then that’s a lot of rice and pasta for the families. We got to see their unique way of living and they got some well needed cash – result! Plus, they sent us off on our merry way with a song 🙂

Oh, I forgot to mention I also got some fab pix; priceless!

Ok, now I have the bee out of my bonnet regarding whether this trip is a good or bad thing, I can continue with my wee adventure.

Amantani island was where we were staying with our local family. We were greeted at the dock and paired up the local ladies who were going to cook and entertain us for the next day. This was our surrogate mum.

There is no disputing the beauty of Amantani island, but as I arrived on the island the beauty was somewhat lost by the size of the hill we had to climb to reach our home. You know me, across the last two months I have quite happily huffed and puffed up to see Christ in Rio, braved the artic conditions of Bolivia and tasted a guinea pig, but this hill was a monster and there was a reason why most people on the trip did not bring their rucksack with them!!!! Whoops, only one thing for it, rucksack number one on back and daypack and handbag safely deposited with Zoe. I am not going to wax lyric about the ordeal, but all I’d like to say is a huge big thanks to Zoe who more than shared my pain and helped us get up the never ending hill; cheers me dear!

Breath back, we were met by some little scamps who had a penchant for taking photographs…

Playtime over, we were lunched at the kids looked on.

By this time the rucksack debacle had long been forgotten and we headed out across the island to visit the temple of the Pachamama and Pachatata at sunrise; such a delightful place.

I forgot to mention, after lunch we got onto the subject of work. You may wonder how we managed this given our lack of Spanish and their lack of English. Regardless, we were shown Mama’s handiwork and of course I had to by a hat! Now don’t laugh.

After dinner, and a few beers shared with our mama, her mama, her sister and the papa, we got dressed and headed out for some proper dancing.

After all that bopping we were shattered, an early night was on the cards.

The next morning after bidding our family goodbye we disembarked down the hill, boarded and headed to Taquille, an island bursting with amazing handicrafts, oh and it was rather pretty too.

We visited the local artisan market, a lot of the handicrafts were man made and they were the most beautiful handcrafted loveliness I had seen across my whole travels in south America.

We ended our visit at a local restaurant, views over lake titicaca and fish and chips; perfect end to fab couple of days x

Country number six – Peru!

Just over two months and six countries, that’s a whistle stop tour of south America if ever I have seen one. As much as I loved Boliva, indeed my favourite country so far, I was really excited to sample some Peruvian delights. We did not have to wait long! Viv and Dave and Zoe were also crossing the border with me, friends at border control is an advantage as sometimes the wait can be somewhat monotonous. Alas not, in, out, stamp, pix, back on the bus. It was indeed a border control delight.

BTW Dave and Viv were responsible for our look of glee!!?! I was pleased to be greeted by the souped up cabs. But no cabs for us, back on the bus, Puno bound.

We had plans to all meet for dinner, but you know put four British folks together who speak the same language and things were gonna go pear shaped! How were we to know there were two plazas and that the folks from puno were celebrating carnival? what a treat. I met Dave and Viv and we were accosted by song and dance, quite unexpectedly. It truly was quite amazing…

I forgot to mention, they have a penchant for spraying ‘everyone’ with shaving foam! Obviously Dave being of large stature was an A1 target..,

Saying that, Viv and I did not get away scott free; or should that be ‘Irish free’?

I think Viv is rocking the pink lady look! In 40 years time I can see a pink rinse coming on 😉

We escaped the madness and i devoured my first, although by no means last, Pisco Sour.

Dave on the other hand also had a first, his first guinea pig…

If you think that looked unappetising check out its gnashers!

Viv and I were quite pleased as at least we could try a ‘tiny’ bit. My morsel tasted duck like with a pork crackling skin, although I was pleased I did not have to eat it all. Go Dave!