Dora does it again!

You’d think after my trekking expedition in Isla Grande (in Brazil, early on in my trip), I’d have learned my Dora the explorer lesson – do NOT go off the beaten track. Alas not!

Everyone raved about the Kuang Si waterfalls, the view from the top was apparently amazing, plus you got to see some bears which had been rescued from a life of abuse in China. Sounded like a lovely day out. And it would have been had I not have followed the ‘trekking’ sign.

One hour, yes one full hour, of battling through jungle under growth, batting off pesky bugs and slipping and sliding my way up the mountain I had to wave the white flag, I was defeated. There was no way I could go any further, I was literally stuck in the mud and the only way was down.

As I began my descent I begun to wonder why I had not seen any fellow trekkers on my travels, I soon found out when I took a slight detour and saw masses of red faced folks walking down some steps. I had gone the wrong way! There was no need to have huffed and puffed my way through the jungle for an hour, I should have just followed the signs (or the tourists) and climbed some steps for 15 minutes. Unfortunately by the time I realised this it was time to tuk tuk it back to the hostel. I can only imagine how beautiful the waterfall was from above, regardless it was pretty special from below.

Head over heels in love with Laos

Day three in Laos and I’m smitten, to be honest it was love at first sight. As I stepped off the plane I was greeted by green, jungled draped mountains in every direction I looked. Getting through customs and obtaining a visa was a piece of cake, the ATM worked and the taxi ride into Luang Prabang was a complete pleasure; we snaked along the river, watching hoards of orange clothed monks just doing their thing.

Sunrise at Phousi Hill was sublime (although rookie mistake, I forgot my camera), the night market was buzzing and filled with gorgeous textiles, a visit to TAEC (traditional arts & ethnology centre) was educational, wandering along the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers jaw dropping, the city itself is a cocophony of colonial buildings and I have not even mentioned the vast amounts of temples hiding around every corner.

I feel as if I’ve stepped back in time and entered a purer, sublime land of loveliness. All the stresses and minutia have been lifted from my mind and I feel cleansed, relaxed and rejuvenated. Life just seems to make sense here.

I already know it’s going to be hard to say goodbye, but sometimes they are the best love stories and the ones that stay with you forever.

Chiang Rai’s white temple

There’s no escaping temples in Thailand, however a visit to Chiang Rai saw a temple with a twist; the white temple or Wat Rong Khun. It’s a recent addition to the landscape, being built only 13 years ago and it was gorgeous. It felt like a visit to Narnia – walking in a winter wonderland!

The city of lights

Loi Krathong, or known to locals as Yi Peng, is a festival which only takes place once a year. They celebrate it by sending light lanterns into the sky and floating flower boats up the river. To appease the river gods, bring good-luck and to say goodbye to the last years trouble and strife (sounded it a bit new year like in western terms), the town comes alive with luminated lanterns, cylindrical lights and masses of tourists all wanting to capture a part of it and take a piece of good-luck home with them. It lasts a few days and luckily I was part of the celebrations for two days.

Check out me and my lantern as I said goodbye to yesterday and hello to tomorrow; it was quite emotional.

I met up with Sandra, my Bangkok buddy, for the finale.

I have a lot to thank Sandra for, not just for the good company and helping me get my krathong lit and up the river…

But also for letting me use this next photo. Tried as I may, oh I did try, I was unable to get a pix that epitomised this special occasion. Truly amazing, emotive and rememberable. Thanks Chiang Mai!

Chiang Mai – a surprise around every corner

And so I headed up north; being a northern gal obviously it was going to be good! And I was not disappointed, I felt totally at home automatically.

It’s a big place, but not compared to Bangkok’s standards. At its heart is the old city, surrounded by a 700 year old medieval wall which was built to keep the Burmese out. It reminded me of Newcastle straight away.

Inside the city wall is compact, despite the throttle of traffic that surrounds it (it was a bit like being back in China, well crossing the road was just as taxing!) and it’s filled with quiet, leafy soi’s (streets) jam packed with guest houses, bars and restaurants. Providing a veritable banquet for the eyes, around every corner there was a something to see, from temples (surprise, surprise), to statues of dragons, horses and Buddhas.

What’s more I had arrived at festival time. This had been planned, it was either the lights of Chiang Mai or the Full Moon party… I deliberated that I had had my fair share of parties, so the lanterns won hands down! As such, all places were decked out with lanterns, streamers and pretty things – most lovely!

Ah, did I mention my accommodation? I was staying at the YMCA, yes really! Unfortunately, not a brickie or red Indian in sight.

Travelling Thai style

I apologise before even writing this, this post is going to be a rant.

Mission to get from Koh Pha-Ngan to Chiang Mai, not too difficult I thought although I knew I’d have a detour via Bangkok. When the hostel couldn’t help, I was advised to visit the local travel agents. No problem, they said, how would you like to get there?

Bus, train, or plane I did not care, I’d look at the prices and choose.

Oh, no planes available, no trains; guess I’ll be taking the bus then. The only route available was leaving noon and arriving Bangkok 6am the following morning, the next bus to Chiang Mai would be 6pm in the evening. Only one bus, a day from Bangkok to Chiang Mia? Apparently so.

Ok, not ideal but my only option. Getting to Bangkok at 6am and waiting 12 hours was do-able, not ideal, but do-able none-the-less especially when I was getting dropped off at Khao San road – my old stomping ground.

So, a ferry and night bus. I was snoozing quite happily when the bus driver announced it was last stop; Khao San road. I looked at my watch, 2.30am not 6am, it could not be. Oh, but yes it was. It was raining, I had my rucksack and did not know where I was. The ‘helpful’ driver wanted to take me to the bus station, nooo! Where’s Khao San road? I thought if I at least I got there I’d be able to concoct a plan.

In my last post, I mentioned that people said your second visit to bangkok would bring relief and it did. Once I realised where I was, I was able to find a hotel for the evening. Thank god!

So for my next leg of the trip. Find the police station and the bus stop / pick up is opposite… I’m boarding at 6pm this evening so luckily I have time to find this allusive bus stop before then. I also asked where in Chiang Mai I’d be dropped off; at the bus station, but where’s the bus station? Don’t know, it’s a big place! Can you not find out? No? Luckily this time I’ve emailed my hostel in advance and said I might be early, I’ve also been advised to get a ‘red truck’ from the bus station, I’m hoping they know where I’m getting dropped off! And, I also think they mean a red taxi.

People say a lot of the experiences of travelling is the journey. I’d happily bypass the journey, if my last trip was anything to go by, give me my Wizard of Oz red shoes any day!

Some serious R&R on Koh Pha-Ngan

Where have the last five days gone? It seems like yesterday that I arrived on the island and all of a sudden I’m on the ferry en route to Chiang Mai. I suppose that’s what Koh Pha-Ngan does to you, wraps you up in its serenity so that any other place seems like another world away.

I stayed on the west side of the island, away from all the madness and partying. I was close to the capital so on an evening I could have a jaunt down the ‘walking street’, watching the sellers ply their wares and then drop into the local market for some satay skewers. Saying that, that only happened once. I was happy being safely wrapped up in my beach hut with views of the sunsets and a cocktail, or two at hand.

I feel a bit bad that I did not explore the island as it boasts some of the best beaches in the whole of Thailand, but that wasn’t what this stop over was about, it was about topping up my tan and chilling! Job done 🙂

A whistle stop tour of Bangkok

I think had should quickly post this blog, before the tranquility of koh phangan quickly erases my memories of Bangkok.

I was really curious about Bangkok (aka the big mango) as I have had heard so many conflicting stories about it; I think it’s a place you either love or hate – well, only one way to find out. I had four days to experience it; on your marks, get set and go!

The first thing that hit me was the noise! You’d have thought that after China I’d become immune to it, but it’s a different type of noise and a different type of hussle and bustle.

And, so many tourists; yes I know I’m one myself, but there are an awful lot of white, youthful faces; filed with excitement and glee about their big trip to Thailand. And, I had booked to stay in a hostel off Khao San road (backpackers and party central) so I only had myself to blame… Hey, I can still party with the young ones, can’t I? Luckily, my partying involved no shots, no ping pong shows or large groups of kids. I’m a flash packer; it was nice bars, fine wine and cocktails.

Back to Bangkok… As i leave the city and head to an island, the craziness of it all just evaporates. I think it is a city of stereotypes, but that is what makes it special and unique. The drinking and partying, the ladyboys, the markets, the massages, the temples, smiling locals, Buddhist monks, great street food, riding a tuk tuk, oh and don’t forget eating Scorpions. Yes, I did them all (nearly) and enjoyed every single minute of it (exception scorpion).

My guide book said when you first arrive in Bangkok you feel startled, relieved when you return and slightly sentimental when you leave? I’lI let you know.

Hooray for Hong Kong

After a somewhat arduous journey, including our fourth and final sleeper train, we arrived in Hong Kong a little dishevelled; well I was anyway. What’s more, after the a excitement of eventually re-connecting with my Facebook world, my blummin wifi would not work. Hey ho, it was the groups last night and I did everything in my power to perk up – it didn’t work! It’s strange how you live in people’s pockets for three weeks and when it comes to saying goodbye and you just feel a little bit flat?

Anyway a few of my Hong Kong boxes were ticked on our last group night; seeing the wondrous sight of the skyline by evening (it blew the socks off Shanghai), the harbour musical light show and the night market… and who knew what day two would bring?

It brought shopping, lots of shopping – well, when in Hong Kong (or Kowloon)! It also brought lots of drinking; surprise surprise! I must admit I am not totally sure how much money my glass of Rioja was, but it was worth every Hong Kong dollar – the first decent glass since Newcastle. Btw I’m so pleased we traversed the travellators before the vino 😉

Needless to say I was feeling a little jaded on Sunday, but by about two o’clock I’d pulled through and had a lovely walk down Nathan Road and boarded the Star Ferry to Hong Kong island heading towards the peak (the highest viewing platform on the island). I had been warned that the queues would be huge, but they didn’t look too bad, that was until I turned the corner and saw the proper queue. An hour later I was climbing up the peak (in the tram!) at a 45 degree angle, now that was pretty spectacular in itself, lo and behold the views. With my slight wait I arrived at the perfect time; I got to see the skyline in daytime and also as the evening took hold. Lovely, lovely!

A lovely little jaunt home, via some of the splendid buildings and I was a happy bunny. Alarm set, next destination Bangkok.

Chinese cookery class

I really struggle cooking Chinese dishes, ok I can stir fry some veggies and add noodles, but the thought of cooking with a multitude of bottle and spices (which my cupboard is well stocked with) has me picking up the phone to order a takeaway! Determined to confront my Chinese cookery demon I signed up for a cookery lesson.

First stop the local market. It was divided into the fruit and veg area and the ‘fresh’ produce – fresh in this instance relates to alive, or very recently alive. If you are squeamish or a vegetarian you may wish to skip these next few pictures.

The food in China differs from province to province, each region having local specialities. In Beijing they like it sweet (hence Peking Duck), Shanghai is renowned for its fish dishes, Xi-An ‘belt noodles’ (sometimes 2m long), Chongqing is the birthplace of the Schezuan hot pot and Guilin make a mean fish beer. My class was in Guilin, so obviously on the menu was fish beer. Accompanying it was Aubergine, pak choy (or similar green veggie), stuffed tofu ball, mushroom and pumpkin flower and a side of chicken and cashew nuts.

To cook all these dishes we only used six flavourings (salt, pepper, oyster sauce, soy sauce, vegetable oil and water), obviously these were complemented by lashings of fresh ginger, garlic and chilli. Now I’m not professing that I’m going to come back home and open a Chinese restaurant, but my food was pretty good.

The top tips I learnt included; hot steaming wok before you add oil, carefully control the heat and add water (don’t stir) near the end of the dish to neutralise the flavours. I may need a little more practice, but I imagine there are going to be a few dinner parties with a distinct Chinese flavour – don’t forget your chopsticks.