Living the Cuban dream?

It’s my final night in Cuba, as such I’ve an obligatory glass of mojito and the folks that live across the road have the salsa on full blast which makes a welcome change from the soft rock that has blaring from the nightclub up the road!

I’ve been here for two weeks and although I had to escape the chaos that was Havana and take myself to a beach resort (I have to return back home with some semblance of colour), it’s been an eye opener.

This has been the only part of my trip that has not been planned with military precision and I think, for this, I have suffered. Not only that, Cuba does not have a hostel network which makes meeting folks quite difficult and… Sorry, yes there’s more, I have found that travelling in Cuba as a woman alone quite intimidating; ok, the blokes are maybe just a friendly bunch but you know please just give me a break! It has been a challenge, but I dug down deep and now I’m leaving I can, hand on heart, say its been an experience I will not forgot in a hurry.

Lots of people have been here on holiday and I’ve heard nothing but great stories, but once you take yourself out of the all inclusive resorts you get a different perspective on life here.

A lot of my challenges could have been surmountable should I have done my research (properly). You know not having wifi or a working Internet cafe would not have been so bad if I had known. I could have planned ahead, got a route and places to stay sorted, warned you all I’d be out of touch, make sure I’d transferred enough cash in to the right bank accounts and make sure I knew where my next hostel in Mexico was. It’s just the small stuff, but if you are not prepared they become huge.

Likewise, I presumed banks would work. Ok I have several different bank cards with me to ensure all eventualities are covered, but when the ATMs run out of cash (which they do frequently, and you can wait at least an hour to get into a bank) the ATM system and the banks system goes down and you need money for a transfer to the airport the next day (no, you can’t book in advance), you kind of worry a bit. If I had had some foresight I would have been prepared, but hindsight is a delightful thing.

Taking of cash, I think every white visitor here has ‘take the mick out of me’ tattooed on their forehead. Ive lost count of the amount of times I’ve been overcharged. One lady charged me double and then had the audacity, as I did not check my change, to say she’d given me too much and took an extra pesos back! I was berated on arriving here as I did not have any cuban cash to give the loo lady a tip. But, what can you? I keep saying its only 50p or a £1, but for as many people that rip you off there’s many who don’t and it’s too easy to tar everyone with the same brush. It’s actually really sad.

So, no wifi or money (it’s all gone in tips or being overcharged!), no great shakes now, but it’s the Cuban’s way of life; their reality, but do they know anything different? Do they realise the rest of the world sings a different tune? More to the point, do they care?

They seem a friendly bunch (some too friendly IMHO!) and are very family orientated; today there was three generations of blokes playing baseball on the beach and loving it. I think They are very proud people and find it hard not being able to communicate with English speaking folks; on several occasions I took this as rude, but I don’t think it’s the case. You know, you forget they don’t have the USA influence (tv, music, etc…) that the rest of south America is party to and it is an island.

I had read that the due to everyone getting paid pretty much the same that you’d see doctors working as waiters to get more cash. I did not see this, but my tour guide used to be a professor but gave it up as he could earn more cash in tips. I worked it out, the typical salary is 200 per month. If he did five trips a week, with average of 15 folks tipping 3, within a week he’d more than double his salary. There’s something amidst here surely? But who am I to question? This is a very complex place with a complex history and very complex issues, there is no way a mere visitor to the isle could possibly try to understand.

On that note, I’ll bid you and Cuba adios. You’ll be glad to hear once I’m back in wifi world i’ll be able to post lots of lovely pix (yep, I have some american cars!) and stop rambling as much; you see what two weeks alone does to ya! X

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